Teresa Cruz de Almeida is a Portuguese designer who specialises in menswear. Alongside a fantastic and talented team, including her shoe designer Caterina Belluardo and make-up artist Jose Pedro Mota she really pushes the boundaries of how we understand and view menswear with her incredibly quirky and original designs and ideas. With a belief that there are no limits to the imagination she approaches her ‘Point 5 Collection’ together with an inspiration for simple forms and primary colour tones.
As I enter her studio on a rather chilly Wednesday afternoon I am met by a team of very tired yet excitable faces, bursting with enthusiasm about their collaboration for the up and coming event. Flourishing with pride I am presented with various shoes that are to be worn by the male models at the showcase, one of which is an incredible pair of brown leather high-heeled boots, which I am so excited and intrigued to witness her models strut about in on Friday! Alongside this are two pairs of sandals which are so unique and incomparable to anything I’ve seen before and I feel a strong sense of passion and inspiration as I witness the perfect shapes and unique finishing details that each sandal has to offer.
As I begin talking to TCA and her team, a tale of hard work, energy and friendship unfolds before me and it is evident that this designer is truly passionate about her work and is unafraid to be different!
Can you tell me a bit about yourself and how you got into fashion?
It all started when I was younger. My grandmother was a tailor and did suits for men. I would spend every day with her and she would always be teaching me new things, so I would constantly be learning from her. I think it is very important having someone you love to inspire you and help you to move forward in a certain direction. It was these first moments spent with my grandma when I really first thought, I love this and I could really do this for myself.
Can you tell about what you will be showcasing on fashion week this September?
My collection is only for men. The look of the collection has a very sixties feel to it and it is aimed at the very polished man. It is for the type of man who wants to look very cool and it is for a very strong character that is not afraid to stand out, especially considering that the collection is definitely not something that everyone is going to wear!
What is the inspiration for your designs?
The inspiration behind this collection was drawn from looking up past styles. In particular I looked at clothing from around 800 years ago with the idea of men wearing corsets and pants. I really wanted to try and simplify this and make it much more modern. I really like to make a point with my designs and my collection and it is incredibly unique.
How did you develop an interest in menswear?
It began as a mistake really! I was originally supposed to do womenswear! When I was trying to get into fashion school, I could not afford it at the time so I had to apply for a scholarship. I ended up being the last student accepted for the scholarship and by that time there were no more vacancies to study womenswear, leaving my only option to study menswear.
However, this turned out to be very positive for me and as I began studying the bones, muscles and structure of a man, I began to have a very different take on the male body and I absolutely fell in love with it! Menswear is so much more challenging...and I love challenges!
What do you think makes you stand out from other designers?
I love to stand out and I’m not afraid to be different. I feel like I am getting older now and I really have nothing to lose. I’m very set on having my own ideas and I love playing about with different designs and light forms. I have so many future plans which I am so excited about and for my next collection I really wish to experiment with different fabrics and achieve many more designs.
Where do you hope to see yourself in five years time?
I want to be recognised as a proper artist and respected and known for my originality as a designer. I want people to be able to look at my designers and be able to say, ‘This is Teresa...and this is weird!’
What are you most looking forward to about the showcase of your collection at the Fashion Mavericks event this Friday?
I’m looking forward to everything! It is like being pregnant for six months with twins and Friday is the day that I’m going to give birth! When I see my babies, I’m going to be so proud! My babies are going to be so funky!
This is really the first showcase I have ever done, so I’m very excited! In Portugal once I had finished school there was really no help or guidance as a designer. Coming to London has offered so many possible opportunities for me, as people are so much more helpful in guiding you in the right direction. I am so grateful for this chance to present my work at the event.
What matters to you most as a designer?
Being original is so important and ensuring that you don’t ever copy write. It is essential that you make sure you have your own thoughts in your mind and stick to the ideas that you have as opposed to taking them from anybody else. Alongside this, I think it is really important to ensure that in whatever you do you have a polished finish.
Caterina Belluardo
Tell me a bit about your experience working with Teresa
Well, for me, it was more of a 2 month pregnancy! We are both incredibly passionate and serious about this, so we both connect so well! We have the ability to make mistakes and learn from them which I think is very important as a designer in helping you grow together. Teresa is not just in this for her, even though she is the designer. She really includes us and recognises how hard we work as opposed to trying to claim all the glory
How have you found creating shoes for men?
It has been very challenging for me as I have always made women’s shoes, however I’ve enjoyed doing this so much as it is so quirky and different! I think that this almost goes beyond menswear and I’ve really learned so much and its really broken down a lot of boundaries for me.
I feel so happy with the final result, however I wish there was more time as I am such a perfectionist. I almost view this as the prototype as opposed to being the final result!
Jose Pedro Mota
TCA: My make up designer really knows me and knows exactly how to translate what I want. Jose will really fight for my interests. He is incredibly talented and has worked on many different movies and has also worked several times on Lisbon Fashion Week. Therefore, he knows exactly how to work under pressure and is incredibly good with timing.
Can you tell me a bit about the make-up and the kind of look you were trying to achieve?
Jose: The make-up is inspired by the sixties particularly by pop art. It aims to create a harmony so as not to steal the show away from the designs. The make-up will aim to create a shiny and almost crystal like look to it and there will be small imprints on the models face from pop art!
The hair will have an Elvis look to it, in which it will be very neat and then have a large curl which will include the use of extensions.
TCA: I am lucky to have such a good team and assistants around me. In particular I want to thank Jacqueline for giving me this opportunity to work on Fashion Week and to all the friends that I am so lucky to have around me.
With a wild and creative flare met by an exceptionally gracious and determined team working alongside her, Teresa really strives for originality with her work and it is evident that she is definitely not just another menswear designer! I am in utter suspense to witness her collection at the Fashion Mavericks event this week and I consider TCA men’s couture to be a key showcase to watch this September.
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