Cleopatra the Muse

Ekaterina Kukhareva is a beautiful young designer set to transform our comprehension of knitwear and the endless possibilities it has to offer. Originally from Ukraine, she is now based in London following her graduation from Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design where she fulfilled a degree in Textiles. Whilst at the college she focused her efforts upon knitwear, with a fascination for experimenting with different knitwear techniques and combinations.

Following her graduation two years ago, she carried out various internships which led her to pursue her dreams of creating her own collection and therefore began working upon her own designs.

I met with Ekaterina today to discuss in detail her creative journey as a designer thus far. With a well earned sense of pride, she discussed with me her latest collection which drew inspiration from the mythological theme of Egypt and the ancient Queen Cleopatra. This collection was the result of a long and carefully thought out process made entirely from scratch. From sourcing her yarn from all around the world right down to the final touches; this designer ensures that each beautiful creation is nothing less than perfect.

Tell me a bit about yourself and your background.

I’m originally from Ukraine but I lived in London for eight years and also lived in Denmark for a few years. I think I have experienced a good mixture of different cultures which I feel have really influenced me as a designer and I have always managed to take something from all these different surroundings.

When I came to London I studied at Central Saint Martins and I graduated two years ago. Since then I have carried out various internships. Following this I decided to do my own collection and design my own things which is ultimately what I had always wanted to do

When I was younger I had only ever envisioned designing clothes as a hobby and as a small child I would often spend my time doing drawings of women in dresses. I had originally wanted to do economics, however when I began studying economics and business studies I realised it wasn’t for me. Therefore, I realised that instead of doing economics and business studies as my parents had wanted me to, I would rather do something I enjoy. Therefore, I went to go and study art and fashion, which then led me to specialise in textiles.

What is the inspiration behind your designs?

The inspiration behind my latest collection was the Egyptian Queen Cleopatra. This collection was actually my graduation collection which I decided to take further. I began the research for my designs looking at the mummification of the body and I spent a lot of time at the British National Museum. I found it fascinating the way in which some of the mummies were wrapped! When people had originally un-wrapped the mummies to see what was inside, they were never able to be rewrapped in the same manner again. Therefore, they just left them wrapped around randomly in the museum. This is basically where I drew inspiration for my designs.

What is your design philosophy?

My designs are for a strong woman. I like to create luxury garments which would be high end luxury for special occasions not just for everyday use. This is due to all my designs being made by hand from scratch. I design for a woman is who is very powerful, very fashionable and has a strong character.

Can you describe to me the general process you to through to design and realize a piece of clothing?

I begin by looking for inspiration for my designs and doing relevant research. I then go on to pick my colour palette and source the yarn, figuring out which techniques match and which techniques to use. Following on from this I would begin to design, which is sometimes done by simply placing fabric on the mannequin and just playing about with different ideas. However, I usually begin by drawing first before I figure out what kind of techniques I’m going to use for the fabric. Finally, once this is all done it is then just down to the finishing details, such as sewing on stones which actually tend to take the longest. In this collection I used lots of macramé which I had to attach to the garments. It was particularly difficult to work out to attach the macramé as it is quite chunky and I wanted to ensure that it looked neat and tidy and ultimately beautiful.

How long does it usually take you to construct a piece?

It takes about seven days in total. The first two days are usually spent making the fabric; however it very much depends on the structure of the fabric as some take longer to set up than others.

What is about knitwear that particularly appealed to you?

I think there are so many endless possibilities with knitwear as there are so many different techniques you can use. You can even make your own yarn, which is actually something I did with some of my garments.

Do you think your designs are reflective of your own personal style?

I think my work is definitely reflective of my own style. I create exactly what I would wear, which I think is important.

When are you happiest?

When I’m all finished! There is so much preparation that goes into my designs which all comes down to about ten minutes of the show!

Why did you decide to showcase with Fashion Mavericks?

I thought it would be an amazing opportunity for me as a designer. I think the whole concept of the event is great as she is giving new designers the chance to present on London Fashion Week, which is not something that is offered by many companies. When Jacqueline contacted me I was actually in the process of doing my collection and I was thinking of trying to look for somewhere to present my clothes, so I was very lucky to have her approach me. I have only ever presented my collection at college so to present at a fashion show will be a very different experience!

I’m now really thinking about the next step for my designs. I want to figure out how I’m going to reproduce my designs in large quantities as they are mostly handmade, which is very time consuming!

With her own signature style and inspiration drawn from her Russian roots and extensive research of world history, Ekaterina Kukhareva really stands out for the quality and deep sense of imagination of her designs. With a Spring/Summer 2011 collection set to leave the audience absolutely captivated by her luxurious garments at its showcase this September, Ekaterina will truly demonstrate the ability of knitwear in creating timeless and elegant designs which have the ability to allow the modern woman to feel sexy, powerful and fashionable.